Central Locking Installation Instructions

The motivation for installing my Central Locking was laziness.

  1. Central Locking is a prerequisite for opening/closing a car using a remote control.

  2. I was so used to the remote control in my other car, that I was frequently leaving the Cappo's passenger door open.

  3. The omission of the ritual "once over" before leaving the car.


  1. This guidance forms the basis for subsequent installation of a remote control system.

  2. With this project (as with the loudspeaker installation) it was important to me not to damage any part of the Cappo and for all modifications to be invisible.

  3. I tested all electrical connections (Central Locking and remote control) before installation into the car (see picture below). However, in general it's hard to to do anything wrong.


For the Cappo, I used Waeco's standard Central Locking system, the Magic LOCK ML-44. Waeco is a so-called Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) and the kit can be bought from Conrad electronics for DM 99. There is also inexpensive version, the ML-22 for DM 79 or thereabouts.
All parts: Central Locking with remote control

Components of the ML-44:

The kit comprises:
2 x Actuators (with sensor = 5 cables) (intended for front doors)
2 x Actuators (without sensor = 2 cables) (intended for rear doors)
1 x Controller
Set of cables and installation hardware

Why ML-44?

As I wanted to use remote control from the outset, I did not need the actuators with sensor.

In the intended installation with the sensor actuators, when the driver's door is opened with the door key, the actuator sends an "open" signal to the other door's actuator via the control unit. However when the remote module is fitted, then both actuators will be simultaneously stimulated, via the control unit, when the remote control is pressed. Actuators with sensors are then not needed, as central locking via key activation is not absolutely necessary.

Advantage: The Cappo is a small car. By using the sensor actuators one would have 5 cables entering the door, plus 2 for the window motors; I do not believe that is not physically viable

Thought: It is possible that the actuators with sensor will work exactly the same as the actuators without sensor, if the additional sensor lines are not used. If so, then the ML-22 kit would do the job. (Though for an extra DM 20, I have two spare actuators in case of failures)


Central Locking operates quite simply. First one uses so-called ACTUATORS. These are built into the door. They consist of a housing and a moving plunger (with a throw of about 2cm). This plunger is forced out by supplying +12 Volts and pulled back in with -12 Volts.

Through the use of mechanical linkages, this device provides sufficient force to operate the door lock mechanism.

The controller is fitted in the car interior (on driver's side, there's plenty of room low on the right) and is connected to the actuators via cables. The controller must be permanently powered with 12 V, e.g. from the radio. This device gives both doors a common open/close signal.

Installation of the actuator into the door:

First the door trim must be removed, having already removed the door handle and internal opening lever. The trim itself is held with pushbuttons, which one can be carefully prized up. Unlike many other vehicles, is very easy to remove a Cappo's door trim. Thus: Remove the door trim and store safely.

Right door without lining

The inside of the door is covered with a plastic film, fastened with a sticky mastic. The film is best removed at the top and allowed to hang down, thus making it much easier to reposition when finished. If possible do not touch the mastic, which is extremely sticky.

The first question, which I posed myself was: "How do I position an actuator without interfering with the window lift mechanism?" After approximately 1 hour of fiddling I found a suitable position. (see picture)
The actuator's mounting lugs were slightly too wide so I shortened them by about 2 mm each (using a saw). Only then would the unit fit the desired location.

Caution before installation: The window must open and close without interference (test test test).

Unfortunately holes in the door must now be drilled. But only small ones.
Then, the actuator is screwed firmly to the door.

Now bend and cut the metal rods (also included in the kit) into shape, to connect the actuator to the existing door lock linkage. The rod is screwed firmly into the the eye of the actuator's plunger, and to the door's locking linkage.

The actuator forces its plunger out to unlock the door, and pulls in to lock. One can check this function by briefly stimulating the actuator with 12/-12 Volts. Application of the appropriate voltage should now open/lock the door.

Repeat the steps, as described, for the other door.

Important: Since the actuator is asymmetric, it will not locate in the passenger door in exactly the same position. I had to put it somewhat lower. (see picture)


If up to this point everything has worked, then the actuator's cables can be fed via the door seal to the car interior. This is a little tricky. I determined that it is best to pull the seal out.

Right door without trim

On the right side of the car you can access a rubber seal. Also here one must have some patience. I eased the hole of the seal somewhat with a pointed screwdriver, to better allow the cables to pass through.

Reconnect any disconnected cables to the control unit. (see connection diagram) Test all functions, and secure cables with cable straps. Reassemble doors and you're finished!

Have fun tinkering - Yours Ronald - 19 July 2001 (Hi Adrian Furniss, thank you for translation)